Pillowcase How-To

Refashioning Your Old Pillows

An easy way to add some spice to your space is just to change something superficial, like a pillow. If you’re disinclined to go out and buy new pillows, it’s easy enough to just cover up the old ones. Instead of covering my pillow completely, I’m going to make an envelope style pillowcase so I can take it off to wash occasionally.

My mom covered this pillow for me when I was in high school. I recently opened it up and realized that the original pillow is a Minnie Mouse pillow that I loved when I was 7. I’m no longer into either of these patterns, though they were perfect at the time. So it’s time for something new. After digging through my fabric stash, I found the perfect fabric to fit my life now. (Alternately, you can use old curtains, a moomoo from the thrift store, sheets, etc just find something you like.)

What you’ll need:
A pillow to cover
Fabric (a large enough piece to cover your pillow and then some)
Scissors
Measuring Tape (I used a measuring tape, a yard stick, and a hem gauge)
Pins
Sewing Machine (or you could sew it by hand)
Matching or Contrasting Thread
Tailors Chalk

Step 1

Measure your pillow. Mine is approximately 18 inches square, measured from seam to seam.

If you want a nice and snug fitting pillowcase, don’t give yourself a seam allowance when you measure out your front piece. My pillow is a little flat, so I’m going to make one large square of 18 x 18 inches for the front panel.

For the back panels, I’m cutting out 2 rectangles, each 18 inches long. One is 11 inches wide and the other is 13 inches wide. The back panels will need a seam allowance on the overlapping edges of 1 inch each, plus they need to overlap by at least 1 inch. I like a lot of overlap so that they stay firmly in place.

Use this to check what your overlap will be: Overlap = (Width 1 + Width 2) – 2” seam allowance – height of pillow.

Mine is: 11 + 13 – 2 – 18 = 4 inches of overlap (this might be a little bit of an overkill).

After you’ve figured out what size each panel should be, draw directly onto the wrong side of your fabric and cut out your panels.

As you can see, my back panels are a different fabric than the front. No rhyme or reason there, just felt like it.

Step 2

Using a measuring device (I used my hem gauge), fold over 1 inch of one of the 18-inch sides of each back panel, then pin and iron. Then tuck half of that under itself, so the hem is only half an inch, like shown, ironing and pinning again.

Using your sewing machine, sew each hem in place, taking out the pins as you come to them. I chose to use a thread color that matches the front and contrasts with the back panels.

Step 3

If you wish to embellish the front, now would be a good time to do so, however you’d like. I chose to let the pattern on the front speak for itself.

Now pin the pieces together with the right sides facing inside.

Overlap the top and bottom back panels, pinning well, so that together the two back panels match the front panel.

I like to have the top back panel on top when all finished, so I pin it underneath the bottom panel, so it switches when I turn it right side out.

You can choose to have right and left back panels instead of top and bottom. That’s especially nice if you have a longer rectangular pillow, instead of a square one.

Step 4

Sew it all together!

One seam around taking out the pins as you go works fine, I keep a ¼ inch seam allowance. And do backstitch both the beginning and the end, which are in exactly the same place.

Snip the corners off, careful not to cut the seam.

Step 5

Turn it right side out. I like to use a chopstick to get the corners all pointy. A pencil or your finger can work fine too.

And now stuff it with your pillow.

Et voila!

By Karen
www.KarensMonsters.com

Upcycled Book Tote

There is one New Year's resolution that I'm really looking forward to, and that is to read more books. Motherhood and my home business keeps me so busy, that I rarely reach for a book now. There is nothing more satisfying to do on a frosty January evening than cozying-up on my couch wrapped in warm blanket with a cup of tea and reading a great book.

My kids really enjoy trips to the library, and check out tons of books to take home. To keep them safe and prevent loosing this precious cargo, I decided to make a tote from an old pair of jeans.
For this project you will need:
~ pair of old jean pants
~ machine thread
~ scissors or rotary cutter
~ measuring tape
~ needle
~ embroidery floss
~ buttons
~ fabric pencil or chalk
~ sewing machine
~ cutting mat
~ omnigrid ruler

1. Using side seams of the pants as a guide, make a cut all the way to the bottom.

2. Lay out back of the pants flat and tuck any excess fabric under the back seam until flat and pin it in place.

3. Measure 13 inches from the top of the pants and mark it with a fabric pencil or chalk in two places, then connect them drawing a line all the way to the edge of the fabric.

4. Cut with scissors adding 1/2in for seam allowance.

5. Using upper corner of each pocket as a guide, mark vertical seam lines and cut adding 1/2in of allowance. Make sure, that the distance between the pockets and edge of the fabric is the same on both sides.

Please note, if you are using pants in smaller size and would like to make your tote larger, add strips of fabric on each side.

6. Lay out leg part of the pants flat on your work table, pin down piece of the tote with packets on top and cut out with scissors using edge of the ready piece as a guide adding 1inch of seam allowance on top.

7. Measure bottom and the side of the tote piece without the pockets, and cut out one 5inch wide strip of fabric for the bottom of the tote, and 2 strips for the sides.

8. Cut out also two, 4in wide strips of fabric for the handles, I would like them to measure 30in and will add another 3in to the length to secure them in place.

9. Using fabric pencil or chalk, write the word "BOOKS" on the larger piece without the pockets, and hand stitch the outline using any type of stitch you'd like.

10. Time for sewing! Remember that axcess fabric we tucked under the "butt" seam? Using your machine, make a stitch on the edge of factory seam securing excess fabric.

11. Pin down two side strips of fabric to front and back of the tote, and sew all the pieces together. Your extra seam allowance will be sticking out on top of the tote. Make sure also, that the inside of fabric is facing out.
12. Using zigzag stitch finish edges of the seams.

13. Pin together and sew front and back pieces to the bottom strip of fabric between side seams. The bottom piece should have a seam allowance on both ends. Sew the short ends of the bottom piece and side pieces together and finish seams with zigzag stitch.

14. To finish the top edge of the tote, use zigzag stitch or double fold bias tape ( I had some leftover from another project). Fold the edge to the inside and stitch 1/2 in from the top edge.

15. To make straps, sew edges of previously cut fabric, iron the seams, turn them inside out and iron again.

16. Secure the straps to the bag and finish embellishing it with buttons.

Embellishing part is so much fun, so go wild! Let your kids make drawings of their favourite book characters with permanent fabric markers, use buttons to spell out "BOOKS" or "READ". Use ribbons, patches, beads or scraps of colorful fabric.
Have fun reading!!

NYC T-Shirt Bag


Reusable bags are all the rage now—and I hope this trend lasts.
Here's a little tutorial that will show you how to turn an iconic NYC T-shirt into a handy little reusuable shopping bag with a sophisticated textured touch. I love looking through this book and I always jump at the opportunity to try her techniques.
So here goes!

You will need:
• NYC T-shirt
• A scrap of red fabric (knit or woven) approximately 5"x9" (the bigger the fabric, the more texture you will get)
• A scrap of interfacing the size of the heart on the T-shirt.
• A needle & thread
• Pins
• An Embroidery hoop
• Access to an iron and a sewing machine


Begin by laying your T-shirt out on your work surface. (And yes, I'm in New York, so the floor is frequently my work surface.) Cut off the sleeves (including the seams) of the T-shirt. Fold the shirt down the middle (lengthwise) and cut off the collar. This will leave you with a sleeveless V-neck T-shirt. Lay the shirt flat again and cut off the bottom 5". (These scraps make excellent dust rags!) Now on to the applique part.

Iron the interfacing over the heart on the wrong side of the T-shirt. Cut your red fabric into a very rough heart shape. It should be considerably larger than the heart on the shirt. Turn the edge of red fabric under approximately 1/4" (iron, if you wish), center it on the heart and pin it down in four places (top/bottom/sides). Center the heart in your embroidery hoop, thread your needle and get ready to sew. Applique the red fabric shape around the edge of the heart using a short running stitch. Because the red shape is bigger than the heart, you will have to gather it slightly as you go by taking bigger stitches through the red shape and shorter stitches along the edge of the heart. You will have a funny puffy shower cap/mushroom shape attached to your shirt when you are finished.

Now the furrowing begins! Start from the back and bring your needle up through the center of the heart and the center of the red shape. Pull the thread taut and then push your needle back down in almost exactly the same spot. You have now tacked down the center of the puffy cap. Move to another area approximately 1" away and repeat the process of sewing up through the shirt and the fabric shape and then down in the same space. Again, move to another area of the heart approximately 1" away and make another stitch. Keep in mind that you are trying to go up through two layers of fabric and then back down through two layers. You will continue to do this across the whole surface of the heart, creating little wrinkles and furrows as you go. I would recommend keeping your stitches far apart initially to help keep the big furrows relatively evenly spaced then work within these smaller sections. Continue to make stitches randomly around the heart until you are happy with the furrowed texture. The back of the heart will be a glorious mess of zig-zagging stitches.
There's no real right or wrong way to. The beauty is in the irregularity of the wrinkles.

Next, turn your shirt inside out and lay it flat again. Pin and sew the bottom edge together. Open the seam flat (and facing up). Measure 3" from each corner of the seam and mark a line that is perpendicular to that bottom seam. Pin and sew along these lines. Trim the seams and turn your new bag right side out.

If you want to make your bag even fancier, you can A) hem the handle edges (doable with a sewing machine & super-easy with a serger), B) applique another heart on the back to cover your stitches, C) cut a cardboard rectangle from an old box to create a flat bottom for your bag.


Now I'm off to the farmer's market to pick up my last minute Thanksgiving supplies!
Tanya
www.luckx4.etsy.com